Verified Open Pattern (1.0.0-published)

This pattern includes verified home printable specification files, dual-unit sizing charts, and full cutting guides. Upstream source: Threadline Open Design Studio (CC BY-SA 4.0).

Chef Jacket Intermediate XS – 3XL

Mandarin Collar Chef Jacket

Mandarin Collar Chef Jacket. Sourced directly from verified open distributions with authentic rights. Includes complete size tables, ease notes, and illustrated construction steps.

Jump to Downloads Front & Back Views Size & Measurements Fabric & Tools Step-by-Step Instructions

Technical Garment Schematics

Front and back flats illustrating seam lines, hem curves, and design details.

Front Elevation

Back Elevation

Sizing & Measurement Tables

Review both body benchmarks and finished garment ease before cutting your cloth.

Measurement Unit

Toggle between metric and imperial values across all charts

1. Body Measurements Chart

Your physical body dimensions. Measure over undergarments with a snug tape.

Swipe sizes

Size	Bust	Waist	Hip
XS	80 cm	62 cm	88 cm
S	86 cm	68 cm	94 cm
M	92 cm	74 cm	100 cm
L	98 cm	80 cm	106 cm
XL	108 cm	90 cm	116 cm
2XL	118 cm	100 cm	126 cm
3XL	128 cm	110 cm	136 cm

2. Finished Garment Measurements Chart

Dimensions of the sewn garment, including designed wearing ease.

Swipe sizes

Size	Finished Bust	Finished Length	Bottom Hem	Bicep Circumference
XS	102 cm	74 cm	104 cm	34 cm
S	108 cm	76 cm	110 cm	35.5 cm
M	114 cm	78 cm	116 cm	37 cm
L	120 cm	80 cm	122 cm	39 cm
XL	130 cm	82 cm	132 cm	42 cm
2XL	140 cm	84 cm	142 cm	45 cm
3XL	150 cm	86 cm	152 cm	48 cm

Size Selection Guidance

Select size based on chest measurement, accounting for mid-layer garments.

Wearing Ease Explanation

+16 to +22 cm chest ease for layering over sweaters and hoodies.

Fabric & Materials

Recommended substrates, stretch allowances, yardage requirements, and required notions.

Recommended Fabrics

Cotton twill, chef coat drill, or poly-cotton canvas (200–260 gsm)

100% cotton drill or twill (220–240 gsm)
Poly-cotton 65/35 workwear twill
Heavyweight cotton duck

Stretch Requirement: None (0% stable woven)

Notions & Sewing Tools

Ensure you have these ready before starting.

Notions:

Matching heavy-duty thread
Jeans/twill needle (size 90/14)
10 chef coat knotted cloth buttons or buttonhole studs
Fusible medium-weight interfacing for mandarin collar and front overlap

Tools Required:

Sewing machine
Fabric shears
Pins or fabric clips
Steam iron and ironing board

Fabric Yardage Requirements

Size Bracket	115 cm (45") Width	150 cm (60") Width
XS – M	2.3 m (2.5 yd)	1.8 m (1.95 yd)
L – XL	2.7 m (2.95 yd)	2.2 m (2.4 yd)
2XL – 3XL	3.1 m (3.4 yd)	2.6 m (2.85 yd)

Seam Allowances & Cutting Layout

Exact seam allowances included in pattern lines, piece list, and cutting discipline.

Standard Seams

10 mm (3/8 in) included on all seams.

Hem Allowance

15 mm (5/8 in) double-fold hem.

Neck & Armhole

6 mm (1/4 in) for neckband or binding attachment.

Pattern Pieces to Cut

Piece Name	Quantity & Orientation	Grainline / Cutting Notes
Jacket Front	Cut 1 Pair in Twill	Double-breasted front
Jacket Back	Cut 1 Pair in Twill	Center back vent
Upper Sleeve	Cut 1 Pair in Twill	Articulated upper sleeve
Under Sleeve	Cut 1 Pair in Twill	Articulated under sleeve
Mandarin Stand Collar	Cut 2 in Twill (1 Interfaced)	Mandarin collar
Lower Patch Pockets	Cut 2 in Twill	Reinforced pockets

Fabric Cutting Checklist:

Press fabric before cutting to remove packing folds and pre-shrink fibers.
Align piece grainlines strictly parallel to fabric selvages.
Transfer notch markings with small 3 mm snips into the seam allowance margin.

Printable Pattern Files

Download PDF files for home printing on standard desktop printers.

Download Pattern Files

1.0.0

Direct pattern downloads. No registration, email capture, or paywalls required.

Updated: 2026-03-09

Instructions Available

Complete offline sewing guidebook with dual calibration test squares, yardage charts, pattern piece cut list, numbered steps, and troubleshooting.

15.4 KB • 4 pages

Download (15.4 KB)

A4 Available

Full-scale 1:1 tiled master pattern for A4 paper (21 sheets). Includes dual 50mm/2.0in calibration boxes, assembly map, grainlines, and corner registration crosshairs.

154.0 KB • 21 pages

Download (154.0 KB)

US Letter Available

Full-scale 1:1 tiled master pattern for US Letter paper (24 sheets). Includes dual 50mm/2.0in calibration boxes, assembly map, grainlines, and corner registration crosshairs.

176.2 KB • 24 pages

Download (176.2 KB)

Printer Calibration Test Sheet (Free Single Sheet) 2.4 KB

Print at 100% scale (no fit-to-page) and measure the 50mm and 2-inch test boxes with a hard ruler.

Download Test Sheet

Print Instructions:

Open the downloaded PDF in Adobe Acrobat Reader or a dedicated desktop PDF viewer. In the print dialog, select "Actual Size" or "Custom Scale: 100%". Never select "Fit to Printable Area". Always measure the calibration square on Page 1 before proceeding.

These files are prepared from documented pattern references through a technical drafting workflow. If anything appears incorrect, unclear, or causes a sewing problem, email feedbacksewingpattern@gmail.com. Send pattern feedback.

100% Scale Verification

Print Page 1 at 100% scale without page scaling. Check Metric box (50 mm x 50 mm) or Imperial box (2.0 in x 2.0 in = 50.8 mm) with a rigid ruler.

Read full printing & calibration guide →

Tile Assembly Instructions

Align numbered registration marks and butt tile edges flush without overlapping untrimmed paper. Tape securely.

Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions

Draft construction notes. Readable online; review against the pattern pieces before sewing.

Cut Twill Pieces & Interface

Cut double-breasted jacket front panels, back panels, two-piece sleeves, mandarin collar, and pockets from durable cotton twill. Interface front crossover facings and collar.

Prepare Patch Pockets

Double-turn and topstitch top pocket hem. Topstitch pocket onto left chest or sleeve with reinforced bartacks at upper corners.

Body & Shoulder Seams

Stitch center back seam with flat-felled finish. Join front and back body panels at shoulder seams right sides together and press open.

Attach Mandarin Stand Collar

Stitch outer and inner mandarin collar pieces along curved top edge right sides together, clip curves, turn right side out, and press. Stitch outer collar to neckline, turn inner collar under, and edgestitch across neck seam.

Two-Piece Sleeves and Side Seams

Assemble two-piece sleeves, set into armholes easing sleeve cap fullness, and stitch side seams continuously from sleeve wrist to jacket hem.

Button Band Facing, Chef Buttons & Hems

Press front crossover facings inside and stitch. Sew double-breasted rows of chef knot buttons or buttonhole studs. Hem sleeves with folded turn-back sleeve hems and hem jacket lower edge.