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Threadline Patterns
Nederlands

Koksjas met opstaande kraag – Naaipatronen

Koksjas met opstaande kraag: bekijk maten, technische tekeningen, broninformatie en beschikbare PDF-bestanden. Technische instructies en bestaande PDF’s zijn in het Engels.

Maten
XS – 3XL
Niveau
Gemiddeld
Versie
1.0.0-published
Bijgewerkt
2026-03-09
Patroonstatus
Gepubliceerd

Technische tekeningen

Voorkant
Achterkant

PDF-bestanden downloaden

Print op 100% of werkelijke grootte, zonder aanpassen aan de pagina. Meet het controlevak op de gekozen testpagina: 50 mm of 2 inch (50,8 mm). Dit zijn verschillende lengtes. Maak eerst een proefmodel voordat je je definitieve stof knipt.

Downloaden: Instructies (PDF · 15.4 KB)Downloaden: A4 (PDF · 154.0 KB)Downloaden: US Letter (PDF · 176.2 KB)
Download het printertestblad

Maattabellen

Maateenheid

Wissel tussen centimeters en inches in alle tabellen

1. Lichaamsmaten

Je eigen lichaamsmaten. Meet over onderkleding met een aansluitend meetlint.

Veeg door de maten
Maat Borst Taille Heup
XS 80 cm 62 cm 88 cm
S 86 cm 68 cm 94 cm
M 92 cm 74 cm 100 cm
L 98 cm 80 cm 106 cm
XL 108 cm 90 cm 116 cm
2XL 118 cm 100 cm 126 cm
3XL 128 cm 110 cm 136 cm

2. Afgewerkte kledingmaten

Maten van het genaaide kledingstuk, inclusief de bedoelde bewegingsruimte.

Veeg door de maten
Maat Afgewerkte borstomtrek Afgewerkte lengte Zoomwijdte Bovenarmomtrek
XS 102 cm 74 cm 104 cm 34 cm
S 108 cm 76 cm 110 cm 35.5 cm
M 114 cm 78 cm 116 cm 37 cm
L 120 cm 80 cm 122 cm 39 cm
XL 130 cm 82 cm 132 cm 42 cm
2XL 140 cm 84 cm 142 cm 45 cm
3XL 150 cm 86 cm 152 cm 48 cm

Maatkeuze en pasvorm

Select size based on chest measurement, accounting for mid-layer garments.

Toelichting op bewegingsruimte

+16 to +22 cm chest ease for layering over sweaters and hoodies.

Stof en benodigdheden

Cotton twill, chef coat drill, or poly-cotton canvas (200–260 gsm) · None (0% stable woven)

  • 100% cotton drill or twill (220–240 gsm)
  • Poly-cotton 65/35 workwear twill
  • Heavyweight cotton duck
Fabric requirements
Size45 in / m45 in / yd60 in / m60 in / yd
XS – M2.32.51.81.95
L – XL2.72.952.22.4
2XL – 3XL3.13.42.62.85

Notions

  • Matching heavy-duty thread
  • Jeans/twill needle (size 90/14)
  • 10 chef coat knotted cloth buttons or buttonhole studs
  • Fusible medium-weight interfacing for mandarin collar and front overlap

Tools

  • Sewing machine
  • Fabric shears
  • Pins or fabric clips
  • Steam iron and ironing board

Knipplan en patroondelen

10 mm (3/8 in) included on all seams.

15 mm (5/8 in) double-fold hem.

6 mm (1/4 in) for neckband or binding attachment.

  • Jacket Front: Cut 1 Pair in Twill Double-breasted front
  • Jacket Back: Cut 1 Pair in Twill Center back vent
  • Upper Sleeve: Cut 1 Pair in Twill Articulated upper sleeve
  • Under Sleeve: Cut 1 Pair in Twill Articulated under sleeve
  • Mandarin Stand Collar: Cut 2 in Twill (1 Interfaced) Mandarin collar
  • Lower Patch Pockets: Cut 2 in Twill Reinforced pockets

Press fabric before cutting to remove packing folds and pre-shrink fibers.

Align piece grainlines strictly parallel to fabric selvages.

Transfer notch markings with small 3 mm snips into the seam allowance margin.

Print Page 1 at 100% scale without page scaling. Check Metric box (50 mm x 50 mm) or Imperial box (2.0 in x 2.0 in = 50.8 mm) with a rigid ruler.

Align numbered registration marks and butt tile edges flush without overlapping untrimmed paper. Tape securely.

Naai-instructies

1

Cut Twill Pieces & Interface

Cut double-breasted jacket front panels, back panels, two-piece sleeves, mandarin collar, and pockets from durable cotton twill. Interface front crossover facings and collar.

2

Prepare Patch Pockets

Double-turn and topstitch top pocket hem. Topstitch pocket onto left chest or sleeve with reinforced bartacks at upper corners.

3

Body & Shoulder Seams

Stitch center back seam with flat-felled finish. Join front and back body panels at shoulder seams right sides together and press open.

4

Attach Mandarin Stand Collar

Stitch outer and inner mandarin collar pieces along curved top edge right sides together, clip curves, turn right side out, and press. Stitch outer collar to neckline, turn inner collar under, and edgestitch across neck seam.

5

Two-Piece Sleeves and Side Seams

Assemble two-piece sleeves, set into armholes easing sleeve cap fullness, and stitch side seams continuously from sleeve wrist to jacket hem.

6

Button Band Facing, Chef Buttons & Hems

Press front crossover facings inside and stitch. Sew double-breasted rows of chef knot buttons or buttonhole studs. Hem sleeves with folded turn-back sleeve hems and hem jacket lower edge.

Problemen oplossen

Seams puckering along stitch line

Thread tension too high or needle blunt

Insert fresh needle and test balance on fabric scrap.

Wavy edge along curved perimeter

Edge was stretched while feeding into machine

Staystitch immediately after cutting and use walking foot.

Bron en licentie

Threadline Open Design Studio (mandarin-chef-jacket). Distributed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Designer: Threadline Technical Team.

CC BY-SA 4.0 Threadline Technical Team

https://threadlinepatterns.org

Testinformatie

Prepared from the listed source record through a technical drafting workflow. Check the measurements, print calibration and construction details carefully, and email feedback if anything appears incorrect.

sample-pending · verified

Threadline Technical Team · Community Open Source Verification

Engelse bronpaginaContact

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