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Verified Open Pattern (4.0.0-published)

This pattern includes verified home printable specification files, dual-unit sizing charts, and full cutting guides. Upstream source: FreeSewing (MIT / CC BY 4.0).

Tie-On Pocket Beginner One Size (Universal)

Lucy — Tie-On Pocket

Lucy is an authentic 18th-century tie-on pocket based on an extant historical specimen in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1 (p. 73). Features a curved teardrop pocket pouch, a bound vertical access slit, and an integrated top binding that extends into generous waist ties to be worn under skirts or over everyday attire.

Technical Design Schematics

Front and back flats illustrating dimensions, binding, seam lines, and design details.

Front Elevation
Back Elevation

Sizing & Finished Dimensions

Review finished dimensions and specifications before cutting your cloth.

Measurement Unit

Toggle between metric and imperial values across all charts

2. Finished Garment Measurements Chart

Dimensions of the sewn garment, including designed wearing ease.

Swipe sizes
Size Bag Width Bag Height Strap Length
Universal 25 cm 40 cm 150 cm

Size Selection Guidance

Universal One Size tie-on pocket. Parametrically drafted with 150 cm (59 in) waist ties to fit comfortably across all adult waist sizes.

Wearing Ease Explanation

Generous 25 x 40 cm teardrop pocket capacity with a 21 cm bound vertical slit allowing easy hand access while seated or standing.

Fabric & Materials

Recommended substrates, stretch allowances, yardage requirements, and required notions.

Recommended Fabrics

Medium-weight linen, cotton calico, drill, or pieced patchwork

  • Medium-weight linen or cotton calico (main body)
  • Lightweight cotton or unbleached muslin (optional lining)
  • Self-fabric or commercial 12–15 mm (1/2 in) double-fold bias binding
Stretch Requirement: None (0% stable woven)

Notions & Sewing Tools

Ensure you have these ready before starting.

Notions:
  • Matching all-purpose sewing thread
  • Universal sewing needle (size 70/10 or 80/12)
  • 2 m (2.2 yd) double-fold bias tape (12–15 mm / 1/2 in wide) for slit and perimeter binding
  • 1.5–2.0 m (1.6–2.2 yd) twill tape or ribbon (15–25 mm / 5/8–1 in wide) for waist ties
Tools Required:
  • Sewing machine
  • Fabric shears or rotary cutter
  • Pins or sewing clips
  • Steam iron and pressing cloth
  • Measuring tape or ruler

Fabric Yardage Requirements

Size Bracket 115 cm (45") Width 150 cm (60") Width
One Size 0.5 m (0.6 yd) 0.5 m (0.6 yd)

Seam Allowances & Cutting Layout

Exact seam allowances included in pattern lines, piece list, and cutting discipline.

Standard Seams

10 mm (3/8 in) included on perimeter (or trimmed if bias bound).

Edge Finish / Hem

Enclosed with bias binding / top waist tape.

Pattern Pieces to Cut

Piece Name Quantity & Orientation Grainline / Cutting Notes
Pocket Bag Cut 2 in Fabric (Cut 2 in Lining if lined) Teardrop shape
Pocket Slit Binding Cut 1 in Bias Binding (45 cm / 18 in length) Bound vertical slit
Waist Ties & Top Binding Cut 1 in Twill Tape or Ribbon (150 cm / 59 in length) Continuous waist tie

Fabric Cutting Checklist:

  • Press fabric thoroughly before laying out pattern pieces.
  • Align the pocket bag grainline arrow parallel to the fabric selvage.
  • Cut two identical pocket bag pieces from main fabric (and two from lining if desired).
  • Cut the 21 cm vertical slit ONLY in the piece chosen for the pocket front; do NOT cut a slit in the pocket back piece.

Printable Pattern Files

Download PDF files for home printing on standard desktop printers.

Download Pattern Files

4.0.0

Direct pattern downloads. No registration, email capture, or paywalls required.

Updated: 2026-03-09
Instructions Available

Complete offline sewing guidebook with dual calibration test squares, yardage charts, pattern piece cut list, numbered steps, and troubleshooting.

12.8 KB 4 pages
A4 Available

Full-scale 1:1 tiled master pattern for A4 paper (11 sheets). Includes dual 50mm/2.0in calibration boxes, assembly map, grainlines, and corner registration crosshairs.

34.3 KB 11 pages
US Letter Available

Full-scale 1:1 tiled master pattern for US Letter paper (11 sheets). Includes dual 50mm/2.0in calibration boxes, assembly map, grainlines, and corner registration crosshairs.

34.4 KB 11 pages
Printer Calibration Test Sheet (Free Single Sheet) 2.4 KB

Print at 100% scale (no fit-to-page) and measure the 50mm and 2-inch test boxes with a hard ruler.

Download Test Sheet
Print Instructions:

Open the downloaded PDF in Adobe Acrobat Reader or a dedicated desktop PDF viewer. In the print dialog, select "Actual Size" or "Custom Scale: 100%". Never select "Fit to Printable Area". Always measure the calibration square on Page 1 before proceeding.

These files are prepared from documented pattern references through a technical drafting workflow. If anything appears incorrect, unclear, or causes a sewing problem, email feedbacksewingpattern@gmail.com. Send pattern feedback.
100% Scale Verification

Print Page 1 at 100% scale without page scaling. Check Metric box (50 mm x 50 mm) or Imperial box (2.0 in x 2.0 in = 50.8 mm) with a rigid ruler.

Read full printing & calibration guide →
Tile Assembly Instructions

Align numbered registration marks and butt tile edges flush without overlapping untrimmed paper. Tape securely.

Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions

Draft construction notes. Readable online; review against the pattern pieces before sewing.

1

Cut Slit and Bind Opening

Carefully cut the 21 cm vertical slit down the center line of the front pocket piece only. Open the slit into a nearly straight line and encase both raw edges with double-fold bias binding. Stitch along the fold from top to bottom, pivoting at the bottom point, and reinforce the bottom point with a tiny zigzag or bar-tack.

2

Join and Finish Pocket Bag Edges

Place the front and back pocket pieces together with wrong sides facing (if binding the perimeter) or right sides facing (if using standard seams). Stitch around the curved side and bottom edges with a 10 mm seam allowance. Encase the perimeter with bias tape, or trim, turn right side out, and press flat.

3

Attach Top Binding and Waist Ties

Find the center point of the 150 cm waist tie tape and match it to the center of the pocket top opening. Sandwich the top raw edges of both front and back pocket pieces inside the folded twill tape or binding. Pin securely across the pocket top width.

4

Stitch Waist Ties and Finish

Starting from one end of the waist tie tape, edge-stitch continuously along the open fold all the way across the pocket top and to the opposite tie end. Fold the raw ends of the tie tape under twice and stitch to finish neatly. Give the completed pocket a final steam press.

Troubleshooting & Fit Alterations

Solutions for common fitting hurdles and construction errors specific to this garment.

Problem: Slit puckers at the bottom point

Possible Cause: Binding was pulled too tightly around the narrow pivot point

Recommended Fix: Smooth the slit edge into a nearly straight line before stitching, clip the point margin slightly, and secure with a horizontal bar-tack.

Problem: Waist ties twist after washing

Possible Cause: Twill tape or self-fabric bias was not pre-shrunk

Recommended Fix: Pre-wash and press twill tape or fabric strips with steam before sewing to eliminate residual shrink and curl.

License & Permissions:

FreeSewing (@freesewing/lucy). Distributed under MIT / CC BY 4.0. Designer: SeaZeeZee (FreeSewing Community), based on Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1, p. 73.

Source: FreeSewing (MIT / CC BY 4.0)

SeaZeeZee (FreeSewing Community) / FreeSewing.org

Pattern Credits:

Designed by SeaZeeZee (FreeSewing Community). Review attribution: FreeSewing Core Team & Janet Arnold Historical Reference.

Version: 4.0.0-published • Last updated: 2026-03-09 Report a problem with this pattern (Lucy — Tie-On Pocket)

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