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Verified Open Pattern (1.1.0-review)

This pattern includes verified home printable specification files, dual-unit sizing charts, and full cutting guides. Upstream source: FreeSewing (MIT / CC BY 4.0).

Pullover Hoodie Confident Beginner XS – 3XL

Hugo Kangaroo Pocket Hoodie

A review-stage fixed-size adaptation of FreeSewing Hugo. The documented hood-centre, neck-binding and pocket-facing pieces are now included in the CAD and cut list.

Technical Garment Schematics

Front and back flats illustrating seam lines, hem curves, and design details.

Front Elevation
Back Elevation

Sizing & Measurement Tables

Review both body benchmarks and finished garment ease before cutting your cloth.

Measurement Unit

Toggle between metric and imperial values across all charts

1. Body Measurements Chart

Your physical body dimensions. Measure over undergarments with a snug tape.

Swipe sizes
Size Bust Waist Hip
XS 80 cm 62 cm 88 cm
S 86 cm 68 cm 94 cm
M 92 cm 74 cm 100 cm
L 98 cm 80 cm 106 cm
XL 108 cm 90 cm 116 cm
2XL 118 cm 100 cm 126 cm
3XL 128 cm 110 cm 136 cm

2. Finished Garment Measurements Chart

Dimensions of the sewn garment, including designed wearing ease.

Swipe sizes
Size Finished Bust Finished Length Bottom Hem Bicep Circumference
XS 98 cm 72 cm 102 cm 34 cm
S 104 cm 74 cm 108 cm 35.5 cm
M 110 cm 76 cm 114 cm 37 cm
L 116 cm 78 cm 120 cm 39 cm
XL 126 cm 80 cm 130 cm 42 cm
2XL 136 cm 82 cm 140 cm 45 cm
3XL 146 cm 84 cm 150 cm 48 cm

Size Selection Guidance

Select by chest measurement. Hugo is drafted for relaxed layering; compare the finished chest and length before cutting.

Wearing Ease Explanation

+18 cm positive ease at the chest in this fixed-size review adaptation.

Fabric & Materials

Recommended substrates, stretch allowances, yardage requirements, and required notions.

Recommended Fabrics

French terry, sweatshirt fleece, or heavy cotton jersey

  • French terry, sweatshirt fleece, or heavy cotton jersey
  • Rib knit for cuffs and hem band
Stretch Requirement: 20-40% Stretch

Notions & Sewing Tools

Ensure you have these ready before starting.

Notions:
  • Matching all-purpose polyester or cotton sewing thread
  • Universal sewing needle (size 80/12)
  • Ballpoint or jersey needle (size 80/12)
  • Cotton drawcord (1.2 m)
  • Herringbone twill tape for neck seam
Tools Required:
  • Sewing machine
  • Fabric shears
  • Pins or fabric clips
  • Steam iron and ironing board

Fabric Yardage Requirements

Size Bracket 115 cm (45") Width 150 cm (60") Width
XS – M 2.2 m (2.4 yd) 1.8 m (1.95 yd)
L – XL 2.6 m (2.85 yd) 2.1 m (2.3 yd)
2XL – 3XL 3 m (3.3 yd) 2.5 m (2.75 yd)

Seam Allowances & Cutting Layout

Exact seam allowances included in pattern lines, piece list, and cutting discipline.

Standard Seams

10 mm (3/8 in) included on all seams.

Hem Allowance

10 mm (3/8 in) seam allowance included for attaching the rib waistband.

Neck & Armhole

10 mm (3/8 in) included at hood, neck-binding and raglan seams.

Pattern Pieces to Cut

Piece Name Quantity & Orientation Grainline / Cutting Notes
Hoodie Front Body Cut 1 on Fold Kangaroo pocket placement
Hoodie Back Body Cut 1 on Fold Raglan back
Raglan Sleeves Cut 1 Pair Raglan armhole seams
Crossover Hood Panels Cut 2 Outer Pairs, Cut 2 Lining Pairs Crossover front
Hood Centre Panels Cut 1 Outer, Cut 1 Lining Join between hood side panels
Neck Binding Cut 1 in Rib Knit Stabilises the neckline seam
Kangaroo Pocket Cut 1 on Fold Hand openings
Pocket Facings Cut 2 Mirrored Finish the pocket hand openings
Rib Wrist Cuffs Cut 1 Pair in Rib Knit 10mm stretch seams
Rib Hem Waistband Cut 1 on Fold in Rib Knit 10mm stretch seams

Fabric Cutting Checklist:

  • Press fabric before cutting to remove packing folds and pre-shrink fibers.
  • Align piece grainlines strictly parallel to fabric selvages.
  • Transfer notch markings with small 3 mm snips into the seam allowance margin.

Printable Pattern Files

Download PDF files for home printing on standard desktop printers.

Download Pattern Files

1.1.0-review

Direct pattern downloads. No registration, email capture, or paywalls required.

Updated: 2026-09-11
Instructions Available

Complete offline sewing guidebook with dual calibration test squares, yardage charts, pattern piece cut list, numbered steps, and troubleshooting.

17.1 KB 4 pages
A4 Available

Full-scale 1:1 tiled master pattern for A4 paper (22 sheets). Includes dual 50mm/2.0in calibration boxes, assembly map, grainlines, and corner registration crosshairs.

253.9 KB 22 pages
US Letter Available

Full-scale 1:1 tiled master pattern for US Letter paper (26 sheets). Includes dual 50mm/2.0in calibration boxes, assembly map, grainlines, and corner registration crosshairs.

301.1 KB 26 pages
Printer Calibration Test Sheet (Free Single Sheet) 2.4 KB

Print at 100% scale (no fit-to-page) and measure the 50mm and 2-inch test boxes with a hard ruler.

Download Test Sheet
Print Instructions:

Open the downloaded PDF in Adobe Acrobat Reader or a dedicated desktop PDF viewer. In the print dialog, select "Actual Size" or "Custom Scale: 100%". Never select "Fit to Printable Area". Always measure the calibration square on Page 1 before proceeding.

These files are prepared from documented pattern references through a technical drafting workflow. If anything appears incorrect, unclear, or causes a sewing problem, email feedbacksewingpattern@gmail.com. Send pattern feedback.
100% Scale Verification

Print Page 1 at 100% scale without page scaling. Check Metric box (50 mm x 50 mm) or Imperial box (2.0 in x 2.0 in = 50.8 mm) with a rigid ruler.

Read full printing & calibration guide →
Tile Assembly Instructions

Align numbered registration marks and butt tile edges flush without overlapping untrimmed paper. Tape securely.

Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions

Draft construction notes. Readable online; review against the pattern pieces before sewing.

1

Reinforce the Kangaroo Pocket Openings

Stabilize the marked ends of both diagonal hand openings, turn the opening allowances to the wrong side, and topstitch them. Press the remaining Kangaroo Pocket edges under, align its center fold and placement marks with the Hoodie Front Body, then topstitch the sides and lower edge with reinforced stitching at all four opening ends.

2

Attach Raglan Sleeves

Match each Raglan Sleeve to the front body at the single-notch seam and to the back body at the double-notch seam, right sides together. Stitch all four raglan seams with a stretch-compatible stitch, finish the allowances together, and press them toward the sleeves.

3

Close Underarm and Body Seams

Fold the hoodie right sides together and match the raglan seam intersections. Stitch continuously from each sleeve wrist through the underarm and down the body side seam. Finish the allowances together and press them toward the back.

4

Assemble the Lined Crossover Hood

Stitch the shell hood center-back seam and repeat for the lining. Place shell and lining right sides together, stitch the face opening, turn and press, then topstitch the marked drawcord casing. Work the drawcord through the casing before attaching the hood.

5

Attach Hood to Neckline

Overlap the crossover hood fronts at the center-front notch and baste the overlap. Match the hood center back to the body center back, pin the hood to the neckline right sides together, stitch, and cover the finished seam allowance with herringbone twill tape.

6

Attach Rib Cuffs and Hem Band

Join the Rib Wrist Cuffs and Rib Hem Waistband into separate loops, then fold each loop lengthwise wrong sides together. Quarter-mark every band and opening; stretch the rib evenly while attaching the cuffs and waistband with a stretch-compatible stitch.

Troubleshooting & Fit Alterations

Solutions for common fitting hurdles and construction errors specific to this garment.

Problem: Seams puckering along stitch line

Possible Cause: Thread tension too high or needle blunt

Recommended Fix: Insert fresh needle and test balance on fabric scrap.

Problem: Wavy edge along curved perimeter

Possible Cause: Edge was stretched while feeding into machine

Recommended Fix: Staystitch immediately after cutting and use walking foot.

License & Permissions:

Adapted from FreeSewing Hugo documentation and source, distributed under the upstream MIT license. Original design by Joost De Cock and the FreeSewing community.

Source: FreeSewing (MIT / CC BY 4.0)

Joost De Cock & FreeSewing Community

Pattern Credits:

Designed by Joost De Cock & FreeSewing Community. Review attribution: Threadline review pending.

Version: 1.1.0-review • Last updated: 2026-09-11 Report a problem with this pattern (Hugo Kangaroo Pocket Hoodie)

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