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Verified Open Pattern (1.0.0-published)

This pattern includes verified home printable specification files, dual-unit sizing charts, and full cutting guides. License: Drafted by Threadline Patterns. CC BY-SA 4.0 International..

Camisole Intermediate XS to 3XL (Bust 80–132 cm / 31.5"–52.0")

Bias Cut Camisole

The Bias Cut Camisole is an iconic everyday luxury staple cut at a 45-degree angle to the grainline, allowing woven fabric to mold gracefully to body contours without stiff darts. Featuring a gentle V-neckline, self-lined front facing, narrow spaghetti straps, and a delicate babylock or rolled hem.

Technical Garment Schematics

Front and back flats illustrating seam lines, hem curves, and design details.

Front Elevation
Back Elevation

Sizing & Measurement Tables

Review both body benchmarks and finished garment ease before cutting your cloth.

Measurement Unit

Toggle between metric and imperial values across all charts

1. Body Measurements Chart

Your physical body dimensions. Measure over undergarments with a snug tape.

Swipe sizes
Size Bust Waist Hip
XS 80 cm 62 cm 88 cm
S 86 cm 68 cm 94 cm
M 94 cm 76 cm 102 cm
L 102 cm 84 cm 110 cm
XL 112 cm 94 cm 120 cm
2XL 122 cm 104 cm 130 cm
3XL 132 cm 116 cm 142 cm

2. Finished Garment Measurements Chart

Dimensions of the sewn garment, including designed wearing ease.

Swipe sizes
Size Finished Bust Finished Length Bottom Hem
XS 84 cm 50 cm 96 cm
S 90 cm 51 cm 102 cm
M 98 cm 52.5 cm 110 cm
L 106 cm 54 cm 118 cm
XL 116 cm 55.5 cm 128 cm
2XL 126 cm 57 cm 138 cm
3XL 136 cm 58.5 cm 148 cm

Size Selection Guidance

Because bias-cut garments expand horizontally when stretched vertically, select size primarily based on full bust with 4 cm (1.5") of positive ease. Hang garment for 24 hours prior to hemming.

Wearing Ease Explanation

Gentle positive ease of +4 cm (+1.5") at bust. Bias cut accommodates natural curves fluidly.

Fabric & Materials

Recommended substrates, stretch allowances, yardage requirements, and required notions.

Recommended Fabrics

Lightweight woven fabrics with fluid, liquid drape

  • Silk crepe de chine or silk satin (16–19 mm) for luxury drape
  • Viscose or rayon twill for everyday fluid movement
  • Cupro or washed sandwashed modal for velvet-matte texture
  • Cotton silk voile for lightweight breathable summer wear
Stretch Requirement: Mechanical stretch only from true 45-degree bias grain

Notions & Sewing Tools

Ensure you have these ready before starting.

Notions:
  • Microtex sewing machine needle (size 60/8 or 70/10)
  • Fine silk or lightweight polyester thread
  • Loop turner for narrow spaghetti straps
  • Fusible stay tape for stabilizing neckline edges
Tools Required:
  • Sewing machine with fine stitch plate
  • Fine glass-head pins (pins will not pull silk threads)
  • Sharp rotary cutter and self-healing mat
  • Tailor ham and pressing cloth

Fabric Yardage Requirements

Size Bracket 115 cm (45") Width 150 cm (60") Width
XS – M 1.4 m (1.5 yd) 1.1 m (1.2 yd)
L – XL 1.7 m (1.9 yd) 1.3 m (1.4 yd)
2XL – 3XL 2 m (2.2 yd) 1.6 m (1.8 yd)

Seam Allowances & Cutting Layout

Exact seam allowances included in pattern lines, piece list, and cutting discipline.

Standard Seams

1.2 cm (1/2 in) designed for neat 6 mm French seams.

Hem Allowance

1.0 cm (3/8 in) narrow baby rolled hem.

Neck & Armhole

1.0 cm (3/8 in) for enclosed facing.

Pattern Pieces to Cut

Piece Name Quantity & Orientation Grainline / Cutting Notes
Front Bodice on Bias Cut 1 on bias Straight of grain
Back Bodice on Bias Cut 1 on bias Straight of grain
Front Facing Cut 1 on bias Straight of grain
Back Facing Cut 1 on bias Straight of grain
Bias Spaghetti Straps Cut 2 strips (2.5 cm wide) Straight of grain

Fabric Cutting Checklist:

  • Cut in a single layer with fabric right side up.
  • Lay grainline arrow strictly parallel to selvage at a 45-degree angle.
  • Do not pull or stretch fabric edges while pinning or cutting.

Printable Pattern Files

Download PDF files for home printing on standard desktop printers.

Download Pattern Files

1.0.0

Direct pattern downloads. No registration, email capture, or paywalls required.

Updated: 2026-03-01
Instructions Available

Complete offline sewing guidebook with dual calibration test squares, yardage charts, pattern piece cut list, numbered steps, and troubleshooting.

15.0 KB 4 pages
A4 Available

Full-scale 1:1 tiled master pattern for A4 paper (15 sheets). Includes dual 50mm/2.0in calibration boxes, assembly map, grainlines, and corner registration crosshairs.

104.0 KB 15 pages
US Letter Available

Full-scale 1:1 tiled master pattern for US Letter paper (16 sheets). Includes dual 50mm/2.0in calibration boxes, assembly map, grainlines, and corner registration crosshairs.

111.8 KB 16 pages
Printer Calibration Test Sheet (Free Single Sheet) 2.4 KB

Print at 100% scale (no fit-to-page) and measure the 50mm and 2-inch test boxes with a hard ruler.

Download Test Sheet
Print Instructions:

Open the downloaded PDF in Adobe Acrobat Reader or a dedicated desktop PDF viewer. In the print dialog, select "Actual Size" or "Custom Scale: 100%". Never select "Fit to Printable Area". Always measure the calibration square on Page 1 before proceeding.

These files are prepared from documented pattern references through a technical drafting workflow. If anything appears incorrect, unclear, or causes a sewing problem, email feedbacksewingpattern@gmail.com. Send pattern feedback.
100% Scale Verification

Print Page 1 at 100% scale without scaling. Check 50 mm (Metric) or 2.0 in [50.8 mm] (Imperial) test square with a hard ruler.

Read full printing & calibration guide →
Tile Assembly Instructions

Align numbered letter and row marks. Butt edges together without overlapping untrimmed paper.

Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions

Draft construction notes. Readable online; review against the pattern pieces before sewing.

1

Staystitch Neckline & Armholes

Immediately staystitch neckline and armhole curves 6 mm from raw edge to prevent bias stretching.

2

Construct Spaghetti Straps

Fold strap strips in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch with 6 mm seam. Turn right side out using loop turner and press.

3

Baste Straps & Attach Facings

Baste straps to front neckline peaks. Stitch facings to front and back necklines right sides together, sandwiching straps. Understitch facing.

4

French Seam Side Construction

Pin front and back wrong sides together. Stitch with 6 mm seam. Trim to 3 mm. Turn right sides together, press, and stitch with 6 mm seam to enclose raw edges.

5

Let Hang & Level Hem

Hang garment on a padded hanger for 24 hours to let bias fibers settle. Trim any uneven hem drops. Sew narrow rolled hem.

Troubleshooting & Fit Alterations

Solutions for common fitting hurdles and construction errors specific to this garment.

Problem: Side seams ripple or puckers appear

Possible Cause: Stitching stretched the bias grain while feeding.

Recommended Fix: Loosen presser foot tension and gently hold fabric taut front and back while sewing.

Problem: Hem hangs unevenly after sewing

Possible Cause: Bias stretched during wear.

Recommended Fix: Level hem with a hem ruler while wearing the garment before final stitching.

License & Permissions:

Drafted by Threadline Patterns. CC BY-SA 4.0 International.

Pattern Credits:

Designed by Threadline Technical Team. Graded by Threadline Technical Review. Review attribution: Astrid Lindholm.

Version: 1.0.0-published • Last updated: 2026-03-01 Report a problem with this pattern (Bias Cut Camisole)

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