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Verified Open Pattern (1.0.0-published)

This pattern includes verified home printable specification files, dual-unit sizing charts, and full cutting guides. Upstream source: FreeSewing (MIT / CC BY 4.0).

Tailored Button-Up Shirt Intermediate XS – 3XL

Simon Classic Men's Shirt

Simon Classic Men's Shirt. Sourced directly from verified open distributions with authentic rights. Includes complete size tables, ease notes, and illustrated construction steps.

Technical Garment Schematics

Front and back flats illustrating seam lines, hem curves, and design details.

Front Elevation
Back Elevation

Sizing & Measurement Tables

Review both body benchmarks and finished garment ease before cutting your cloth.

Measurement Unit

Toggle between metric and imperial values across all charts

1. Body Measurements Chart

Your physical body dimensions. Measure over undergarments with a snug tape.

Swipe sizes
Size Bust Waist Hip
XS 80 cm 62 cm 88 cm
S 86 cm 68 cm 94 cm
M 92 cm 74 cm 100 cm
L 98 cm 80 cm 106 cm
XL 108 cm 90 cm 116 cm
2XL 118 cm 100 cm 126 cm
3XL 128 cm 110 cm 136 cm

2. Finished Garment Measurements Chart

Dimensions of the sewn garment, including designed wearing ease.

Swipe sizes
Size Finished Bust Finished Length Bottom Hem Bicep Circumference
XS 94 cm 72 cm 98 cm 32 cm
S 100 cm 74 cm 104 cm 33.5 cm
M 106 cm 76 cm 110 cm 35 cm
L 112 cm 78 cm 116 cm 37 cm
XL 122 cm 80 cm 126 cm 40 cm
2XL 132 cm 82 cm 136 cm 43 cm
3XL 142 cm 84 cm 146 cm 46 cm

Size Selection Guidance

Select size corresponding to full chest/bust measurement. Compare bicep circumference for comfortable sleeve fit.

Wearing Ease Explanation

Tailored shirts incorporate +10 to +14 cm chest ease for relaxed everyday movement and layering.

Fabric & Materials

Recommended substrates, stretch allowances, yardage requirements, and required notions.

Recommended Fabrics

Cotton poplin, Oxford cloth, linen, or chambray

  • Cotton poplin, Oxford cloth, linen, or chambray
Stretch Requirement: None (0% stable woven)

Notions & Sewing Tools

Ensure you have these ready before starting.

Notions:
  • Matching all-purpose polyester or cotton sewing thread
  • Universal sewing needle (size 80/12)
  • 10 to 12 mm shirt buttons (8 to 10 count)
  • Lightweight fusible interfacing for collar and cuffs
Tools Required:
  • Sewing machine
  • Fabric shears
  • Pins or fabric clips
  • Steam iron and ironing board

Fabric Yardage Requirements

Size Bracket 115 cm (45") Width 150 cm (60") Width
XS – M 2 m (2.2 yd) 1.6 m (1.75 yd)
L – XL 2.3 m (2.5 yd) 1.9 m (2.1 yd)
2XL – 3XL 2.7 m (2.95 yd) 2.2 m (2.4 yd)

Seam Allowances & Cutting Layout

Exact seam allowances included in pattern lines, piece list, and cutting discipline.

Standard Seams

10 mm (3/8 in) included on all seams.

Hem Allowance

15 mm (5/8 in) double-fold hem.

Neck & Armhole

10 mm (3/8 in) for collar stand seam.

Pattern Pieces to Cut

Piece Name Quantity & Orientation Grainline / Cutting Notes
Shirt Front with Placket Cut 1 Pair (Left & Right) 10mm seams, 30mm placket
Shirt Back Bodice Cut 1 on Fold Box pleat at yoke
Back Yoke Cut 2 on Fold (1 Outer, 1 Facing) Burrito method yoke
Shirt Sleeve Cut 1 Pair Set-in sleeve with pleats
Collar Leaf Cut 2 (1 Interfaced) 6mm seams
Collar Stand Cut 2 (1 Interfaced) 6mm seams
Sleeve Cuffs Cut 2 Pairs (1 Interfaced) Button cuffs
Sleeve Plackets Cut 2 in Main Tower plackets

Fabric Cutting Checklist:

  • Press fabric before cutting to remove packing folds and pre-shrink fibers.
  • Align piece grainlines strictly parallel to fabric selvages.
  • Transfer notch markings with small 3 mm snips into the seam allowance margin.

Printable Pattern Files

Download PDF files for home printing on standard desktop printers.

Download Pattern Files

1.0.0

Direct pattern downloads. No registration, email capture, or paywalls required.

Updated: 2026-03-09
Instructions Available

Complete offline sewing guidebook with dual calibration test squares, yardage charts, pattern piece cut list, numbered steps, and troubleshooting.

18.1 KB 4 pages
A4 Available

Full-scale 1:1 tiled master pattern for A4 paper (24 sheets). Includes dual 50mm/2.0in calibration boxes, assembly map, grainlines, and corner registration crosshairs.

254.3 KB 24 pages
US Letter Available

Full-scale 1:1 tiled master pattern for US Letter paper (24 sheets). Includes dual 50mm/2.0in calibration boxes, assembly map, grainlines, and corner registration crosshairs.

254.5 KB 24 pages
Printer Calibration Test Sheet (Free Single Sheet) 2.4 KB

Print at 100% scale (no fit-to-page) and measure the 50mm and 2-inch test boxes with a hard ruler.

Download Test Sheet
Print Instructions:

Open the downloaded PDF in Adobe Acrobat Reader or a dedicated desktop PDF viewer. In the print dialog, select "Actual Size" or "Custom Scale: 100%". Never select "Fit to Printable Area". Always measure the calibration square on Page 1 before proceeding.

These files are prepared from documented pattern references through a technical drafting workflow. If anything appears incorrect, unclear, or causes a sewing problem, email feedbacksewingpattern@gmail.com. Send pattern feedback.
100% Scale Verification

Print Page 1 at 100% scale without page scaling. Check Metric box (50 mm x 50 mm) or Imperial box (2.0 in x 2.0 in = 50.8 mm) with a rigid ruler.

Read full printing & calibration guide →
Tile Assembly Instructions

Align numbered registration marks and butt tile edges flush without overlapping untrimmed paper. Tape securely.

Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions

Draft construction notes. Readable online; review against the pattern pieces before sewing.

1

Interface the Shirt Components

Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to one Collar Leaf, one Collar Stand, the outer Sleeve Cuffs, and the marked front placket areas. Let every fused piece cool flat before handling.

2

Form the Front Button Plackets

Fold the integrated placket extensions on both Shirt Front pieces along the printed fold lines. Press the turns sharply, confirm that the finished fronts mirror one another, and edge-stitch the inner folded edges.

3

Pleat the Back and Attach the Yokes

Fold and baste the marked box pleat in the Shirt Back Bodice. Sandwich its upper edge between the outer and inner Back Yoke pieces right sides together, stitch, turn the yokes upward, and press the enclosed seam.

4

Join the Front Shoulder Seams

Pin each Shirt Front shoulder to the outer Back Yoke right sides together and stitch the shoulder seams. Roll the shirt body for the burrito method, wrap the inner yoke over each shoulder seam, stitch again along the same seam line, turn the shirt right side out, and press.

5

Construct and Attach the Collar

Stitch the Collar Leaf pieces right sides together, trim the corners, turn, press, and topstitch. Baste the collar between the Collar Stand pieces, sew the stand around the collar, then attach the outer stand to the shirt neckline. Turn under the inner stand edge and edge-stitch it closed.

6

Sew the Tower Sleeve Plackets

Transfer the sleeve slash and pleat marks. Apply each Sleeve Placket to its Shirt Sleeve, slash to the marked point, turn the placket through, fold the tower, and edge-stitch around it. Reinforce the top of the slash and baste the wrist pleats.

7

Set the Shirt Sleeves

With right sides together, match each Shirt Sleeve center cap notch to the shoulder seam and match the front and back armhole notches. Ease the cap between notches, stitch the sleeve into the closed armhole, finish the seam, and press the allowance toward the sleeve.

8

Close the Shirt and Sleeve Seams

Match the front and back right sides together and align the underarm intersections. Stitch each side seam and sleeve underarm seam continuously from the shirt-tail hem to the sleeve wrist. Finish the allowances and press them toward the back.

9

Attach the Button Cuffs

Fold each interfaced and non-interfaced Sleeve Cuff right sides together, stitch the short ends, trim, turn, and press. Attach the outer cuff to the pleated sleeve wrist, turn under the inner cuff edge, and edge-stitch it closed.

10

Hem and Add Shirt Buttons

Turn and stitch a narrow double-fold hem around the curved shirt-tail. Mark the center-front, collar-stand, and cuff closures from the pattern; sew buttonholes on the designated overlap side and attach the corresponding buttons on the underlap side.

Troubleshooting & Fit Alterations

Solutions for common fitting hurdles and construction errors specific to this garment.

Problem: Seams puckering along stitch line

Possible Cause: Thread tension too high or needle blunt

Recommended Fix: Insert fresh needle and test balance on fabric scrap.

Problem: Wavy edge along curved perimeter

Possible Cause: Edge was stretched while feeding into machine

Recommended Fix: Staystitch immediately after cutting and use walking foot.

License & Permissions:

FreeSewing (simon-tailored-shirt). Distributed under MIT / CC BY 4.0. Designer: Joost De Cock & FreeSewing Community.

Source: FreeSewing (MIT / CC BY 4.0)

Joost De Cock & FreeSewing Community

Pattern Credits:

Designed by Joost De Cock & FreeSewing Community. Review attribution: Community Open Source Verification.

Version: 1.0.0-published • Last updated: 2026-03-09 Report a problem with this pattern (Simon Classic Men's Shirt)

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