Interface the Shirt Components
Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to one Collar Leaf, one Collar Stand, the outer Sleeve Cuffs, and the marked front placket areas. Let every fused piece cool flat before handling.
Simon klassiek herenoverhemd: bekijk maten, technische tekeningen, broninformatie en beschikbare PDF-bestanden. Technische instructies en bestaande PDF’s zijn in het Engels.
Print op 100% of werkelijke grootte, zonder aanpassen aan de pagina. Meet het controlevak op de gekozen testpagina: 50 mm of 2 inch (50,8 mm). Dit zijn verschillende lengtes. Maak eerst een proefmodel voordat je je definitieve stof knipt.
Wissel tussen centimeters en inches in alle tabellen
Je eigen lichaamsmaten. Meet over onderkleding met een aansluitend meetlint.
Maten van het genaaide kledingstuk, inclusief de bedoelde bewegingsruimte.
Select size corresponding to full chest/bust measurement. Compare bicep circumference for comfortable sleeve fit.
Tailored shirts incorporate +10 to +14 cm chest ease for relaxed everyday movement and layering.
Cotton poplin, Oxford cloth, linen, or chambray · None (0% stable woven)
| Size | 45 in / m | 45 in / yd | 60 in / m | 60 in / yd |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS – M | 2 | 2.2 | 1.6 | 1.75 |
| L – XL | 2.3 | 2.5 | 1.9 | 2.1 |
| 2XL – 3XL | 2.7 | 2.95 | 2.2 | 2.4 |
10 mm (3/8 in) included on all seams.
15 mm (5/8 in) double-fold hem.
10 mm (3/8 in) for collar stand seam.
Press fabric before cutting to remove packing folds and pre-shrink fibers.
Align piece grainlines strictly parallel to fabric selvages.
Transfer notch markings with small 3 mm snips into the seam allowance margin.
Print Page 1 at 100% scale without page scaling. Check Metric box (50 mm x 50 mm) or Imperial box (2.0 in x 2.0 in = 50.8 mm) with a rigid ruler.
Align numbered registration marks and butt tile edges flush without overlapping untrimmed paper. Tape securely.
Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to one Collar Leaf, one Collar Stand, the outer Sleeve Cuffs, and the marked front placket areas. Let every fused piece cool flat before handling.
Fold the integrated placket extensions on both Shirt Front pieces along the printed fold lines. Press the turns sharply, confirm that the finished fronts mirror one another, and edge-stitch the inner folded edges.
Fold and baste the marked box pleat in the Shirt Back Bodice. Sandwich its upper edge between the outer and inner Back Yoke pieces right sides together, stitch, turn the yokes upward, and press the enclosed seam.
Pin each Shirt Front shoulder to the outer Back Yoke right sides together and stitch the shoulder seams. Roll the shirt body for the burrito method, wrap the inner yoke over each shoulder seam, stitch again along the same seam line, turn the shirt right side out, and press.
Stitch the Collar Leaf pieces right sides together, trim the corners, turn, press, and topstitch. Baste the collar between the Collar Stand pieces, sew the stand around the collar, then attach the outer stand to the shirt neckline. Turn under the inner stand edge and edge-stitch it closed.
Transfer the sleeve slash and pleat marks. Apply each Sleeve Placket to its Shirt Sleeve, slash to the marked point, turn the placket through, fold the tower, and edge-stitch around it. Reinforce the top of the slash and baste the wrist pleats.
With right sides together, match each Shirt Sleeve center cap notch to the shoulder seam and match the front and back armhole notches. Ease the cap between notches, stitch the sleeve into the closed armhole, finish the seam, and press the allowance toward the sleeve.
Match the front and back right sides together and align the underarm intersections. Stitch each side seam and sleeve underarm seam continuously from the shirt-tail hem to the sleeve wrist. Finish the allowances and press them toward the back.
Fold each interfaced and non-interfaced Sleeve Cuff right sides together, stitch the short ends, trim, turn, and press. Attach the outer cuff to the pleated sleeve wrist, turn under the inner cuff edge, and edge-stitch it closed.
Turn and stitch a narrow double-fold hem around the curved shirt-tail. Mark the center-front, collar-stand, and cuff closures from the pattern; sew buttonholes on the designated overlap side and attach the corresponding buttons on the underlap side.
Thread tension too high or needle blunt
Insert fresh needle and test balance on fabric scrap.
Edge was stretched while feeding into machine
Staystitch immediately after cutting and use walking foot.
FreeSewing (simon-tailored-shirt). Distributed under MIT / CC BY 4.0. Designer: Joost De Cock & FreeSewing Community.
MIT / CC BY 4.0 Joost De Cock & FreeSewing Community
https://github.com/freesewing/freesewingParametric drafting geometry, seam balance, and grading verified with upstream open source community testing.
community-tested · verified
Joost De Cock & FreeSewing Community · Community Open Source Verification
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