1
Cut Boatneck & Side Slashes
Fold fabric with crosswise fold at shoulders. Cut shallow boatneck opening and slash horizontally at hip line on each side as indicated on pattern.
Verified Open Pattern (1.0.0-published)
This pattern includes verified home printable specification files, dual-unit sizing charts, and full cutting guides. Upstream source: Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences (Public Domain).
One-Hour Dress Beginner XS – 3XL
Mary Brooks Picken One-Hour Dress
Mary Brooks Picken One-Hour Dress. Sourced directly from verified open distributions with authentic rights. Includes complete size tables, ease notes, and illustrated construction steps.
Technical Garment Schematics
Front and back flats illustrating seam lines, hem curves, and design details.
Front Elevation
Back Elevation
Sizing & Measurement Tables
Review both body benchmarks and finished garment ease before cutting your cloth.
Measurement Unit
Toggle between metric and imperial values across all charts
1. Body Measurements Chart
Your physical body dimensions. Measure over undergarments with a snug tape.
Swipe sizes
2. Finished Garment Measurements Chart
Dimensions of the sewn garment, including designed wearing ease.
Swipe sizes
Size Selection Guidance
Select size based on high bust and full bust measurement.
Wearing Ease Explanation
Loose tubular 1920s chemise fit cinched at waist or hips with matching tie sash belt.
Fabric & Materials
Recommended substrates, stretch allowances, yardage requirements, and required notions.
Recommended Fabrics
Lightweight to medium-weight suitable fabric substrates
- Lightweight to medium-weight suitable fabric substrates
- Pre-washed natural fibers (cotton, linen, or bamboo)
Stretch Requirement: None (0% stable woven)
Notions & Sewing Tools
Ensure you have these ready before starting.
Notions:
- Matching all-purpose polyester or cotton sewing thread
- Universal sewing needle (size 80/12)
- 18 to 22 inch invisible zipper
- Hook and eye closure
Tools Required:
- Sewing machine
- Fabric shears
- Pins or fabric clips
- Steam iron and ironing board
Fabric Yardage Requirements
| Size Bracket | 115 cm (45") Width | 150 cm (60") Width |
|---|---|---|
| XS – M | 2.4 m (2.6 yd) | 1.8 m (1.95 yd) |
| L – XL | 2.8 m (3.05 yd) | 2.2 m (2.4 yd) |
| 2XL – 3XL | 3.2 m (3.5 yd) | 2.6 m (2.85 yd) |
Seam Allowances & Cutting Layout
Exact seam allowances included in pattern lines, piece list, and cutting discipline.
Standard Seams
10 mm (3/8 in) French seams or flat-felled seams.
Hem Allowance
40 mm (1 5/8 in) hem allowance.
Neck & Armhole
6 mm (1/4 in) narrow hem or bias-bound finish.
Pattern Pieces to Cut
| Piece Name | Quantity & Orientation | Grainline / Cutting Notes |
|---|---|---|
| One-Hour Dress Body | Cut 2 on Fold (1 Front, 1 Back) | Classic 1924 straight chemise dress with grown-on drop sleeves |
| Tie Sash Belt | Cut 1 on Fold in Self Fabric | Long self-fabric sash to cinch tubular dress |
Fabric Cutting Checklist:
- Fold fabric crosswise then lengthwise for simultaneous front and back cutting.
- Align piece grainlines strictly parallel to fabric selvages.
- Snip 3 mm alignment notches at hip slash lines.
Printable Pattern Files
Download PDF files for home printing on standard desktop printers.
Download Pattern Files
1.0.0Direct pattern downloads. No registration, email capture, or paywalls required.
Updated: 2026-03-09
Instructions Available
Complete offline sewing guidebook with dual calibration test squares, yardage charts, pattern piece cut list, numbered steps, and troubleshooting.
14.1 KB • 4 pages
A4 Available
Full-scale 1:1 tiled master pattern for A4 paper (27 sheets). Includes dual 50mm/2.0in calibration boxes, assembly map, grainlines, and corner registration crosshairs.
131.0 KB • 27 pages
US Letter Available
Full-scale 1:1 tiled master pattern for US Letter paper (29 sheets). Includes dual 50mm/2.0in calibration boxes, assembly map, grainlines, and corner registration crosshairs.
140.7 KB • 29 pages
Printer Calibration Test Sheet (Free Single Sheet) 2.4 KB
Print at 100% scale (no fit-to-page) and measure the 50mm and 2-inch test boxes with a hard ruler.
Print Instructions:
Open the downloaded PDF in Adobe Acrobat Reader or a dedicated desktop PDF viewer. In the print dialog, select "Actual Size" or "Custom Scale: 100%". Never select "Fit to Printable Area". Always measure the calibration square on Page 1 before proceeding.
These files are prepared from documented pattern references through a technical drafting workflow. If anything appears incorrect, unclear, or causes a sewing problem, email feedbacksewingpattern@gmail.com. Send pattern feedback.
100% Scale Verification
Print Page 1 at 100% scale without page scaling. Check Metric box (50 mm x 50 mm) or Imperial box (2.0 in x 2.0 in = 50.8 mm) with a rigid ruler.
Read full printing & calibration guide → Tile Assembly Instructions
Align numbered registration marks and butt tile edges flush without overlapping untrimmed paper. Tape securely.
Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions
Draft construction notes. Readable online; review against the pattern pieces before sewing.
2
Stitch Shoulder Seams & Finish Neckline
Stitch shoulder seams right sides together. Finish boatneck edge with narrow double rolled hem or enclosed lightweight bias binding.
3
Stitch Continuous Side Seams
Pin front to back right sides together. Stitch continuous side seams from grown-on sleeve hem down to bottom hem using clean French seams.
4
Hem Dress & Grown-on Sleeves
Turn up 10 mm hem on grown-on sleeve openings and 40 mm hem along bottom skirt opening. Topstitch neatly and steam press.
5
Assemble Tie Sash Belt
Fold sash strip lengthwise right sides together, stitch leaving a turning gap, turn right side out, slip-stitch gap closed, and press crisp.
Troubleshooting & Fit Alterations
Solutions for common fitting hurdles and construction errors specific to this garment.
Problem: Seams puckering along stitch line
Possible Cause: Thread tension too high or needle blunt
Recommended Fix: Insert fresh needle and test balance on fabric scrap.
Problem: Wavy edge along curved perimeter
Possible Cause: Edge was stretched while feeding into machine
Recommended Fix: Staystitch immediately after cutting and use walking foot.
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