1
Staystitch & Mark
Staystitch waistline curves at 8 mm. Transfer pocket, fly topstitch, and rear welt pocket markings onto the fabric wrong side using tailor's chalk.
Charlie chino zonder voorplooien – Naaipatronen
Charlie chino zonder voorplooien: bekijk maten, technische tekeningen, broninformatie en beschikbare PDF-bestanden. Technische instructies en bestaande PDF’s zijn in het Engels.
- Maten
- XS – 3XL
- Niveau
- Gemiddeld
- Versie
- 1.0.0-published
- Bijgewerkt
- 2026-03-09
- Patroonstatus
- Gepubliceerd
Technische tekeningen
PDF-bestanden downloaden
Print op 100% of werkelijke grootte, zonder aanpassen aan de pagina. Meet het controlevak op de gekozen testpagina: 50 mm of 2 inch (50,8 mm). Dit zijn verschillende lengtes. Maak eerst een proefmodel voordat je je definitieve stof knipt.
Downloaden: Instructies (PDF · 16.6 KB)Downloaden: A4 (PDF · 254.6 KB)Downloaden: US Letter (PDF · 265.1 KB)
Download het printertestbladMaattabellen
Maateenheid
Wissel tussen centimeters en inches in alle tabellen
1. Lichaamsmaten
Je eigen lichaamsmaten. Meet over onderkleding met een aansluitend meetlint.
Veeg door de maten
2. Afgewerkte kledingmaten
Maten van het genaaide kledingstuk, inclusief de bedoelde bewegingsruimte.
Veeg door de maten
Maatkeuze en pasvorm
Select size corresponding to natural waist and full hip/seat measurements. If between sizes, choose the larger size and adjust side seams.
Toelichting op bewegingsruimte
Structured trousers include +4 to +6 cm ease at waistband and +8 to +12 cm ease through hip/thigh for sitting comfort.
Stof en benodigdheden
Cotton twill, chino, denim, linen, or wool suiting · None (0% stable woven)
- Cotton twill, chino, denim, linen, or wool suiting
- Pocketing cotton for pocket bags
| Size | 45 in / m | 45 in / yd | 60 in / m | 60 in / yd |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS – M | 2.2 | 2.4 | 1.7 | 1.85 |
| L – XL | 2.5 | 2.75 | 2 | 2.2 |
| 2XL – 3XL | 2.9 | 3.15 | 2.4 | 2.6 |
Notions
- Matching all-purpose polyester or cotton sewing thread
- Universal sewing needle (size 80/12)
- 7 inch metal or nylon trouser zipper
- Trouser hook and eye or 18mm button
- Interfacing for waistband
Tools
- Sewing machine
- Fabric shears
- Pins or fabric clips
- Steam iron and ironing board
Knipplan en patroondelen
15 mm (5/8 in) included on outseams, inseams, and crotch curve.
35 mm (1 3/8 in) hem allowance.
N/A (Trouser garment).
- Front Trouser Leg: Cut 1 Pair (1 Left, 1 Right) Slant pocket edge
- Back Trouser Leg: Cut 1 Pair (1 Left, 1 Right) Back fitting dart
- Contoured Waistband: Cut 2 in Fabric, 1 in Fusible Interfacing Contoured waistband
- Front Pocket Facing: Cut 1 Pair in Self Fabric Slant pocket
- Front Pocket Bag: Cut 1 Pair in Pocketing/Lining Pocketing fabric
- Fly Facing: Cut 1 in Self + 1 Interfacing Zipper fly
- Fly Shield: Cut 1 in Self Protective fly shield
- Back Welt Pocket Bands: Cut 2 in Self Fabric Single/double welt
Press fabric before cutting to remove packing folds and pre-shrink fibers.
Align piece grainlines strictly parallel to fabric selvages.
Transfer notch markings with small 3 mm snips into the seam allowance margin.
Print Page 1 at 100% scale without page scaling. Check Metric box (50 mm x 50 mm) or Imperial box (2.0 in x 2.0 in = 50.8 mm) with a rigid ruler.
Align numbered registration marks and butt tile edges flush without overlapping untrimmed paper. Tape securely.
Naai-instructies
2
Construct Front Slant Pockets
Pin pocket facings to front trouser leg pocket slant edges right sides together. Stitch, trim seam allowance, understitch facing towards pocket bag, and press crisp.
3
Assemble Back Welt Pockets
Interface welt pocket locations on back legs. Position welt strips, stitch parallel welt lines, cut opening, turn welt through, and press rectangular welt lips. Topstitch pocket bags securely.
4
Install Zipper Fly
Attach interfaced fly facing to left center front edge. Stitch zipper tape to right extension, fold protective shield behind zipper, and topstitch classic curved J-stitch.
5
Join Inseams and Outseams
Pin front and back legs right sides together at outseams and inseams. Stitch from hem up to crotch. Press seams open or finish raw edges with a clean serged finish.
6
Stitch Crotch Curve
Insert one trouser leg inside the other right sides together. Align crotch seam and four-way intersection. Stitch from back waistline through fly base, reinforcing stress point with second pass.
7
Attach Contoured Waistband & Belt Loops
Attach belt loops to waist seam. Stitch interfaced outer waistband to trouser waistline. Press seam up, fold waistband over, stitch in the ditch from right side, and bar-tack belt loops.
8
Hem Trouser Legs
Turn up specified 35 mm hem allowance. Blind-stitch or machine-hem trouser leg hem and perform final steam press.
Problemen oplossen
Seams puckering along stitch line
Thread tension too high or needle blunt
Insert fresh needle and test balance on fabric scrap.
Wavy edge along curved perimeter
Edge was stretched while feeding into machine
Staystitch immediately after cutting and use walking foot.
Bron en licentie
FreeSewing (charlie-flat-front-chinos). Distributed under MIT / CC BY 4.0. Designer: Joost De Cock & FreeSewing Community.
MIT / CC BY 4.0 Joost De Cock & FreeSewing Community
https://github.com/freesewing/freesewingTestinformatie
Parametric drafting geometry, seam balance, and grading verified with upstream open source community testing.
community-tested · verified
Joost De Cock & FreeSewing Community · Community Open Source Verification
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